Monday, Oct. 15

We woke this morning (at about 6) to real rain, the first we’ve seen since we got here. After more Marks & Spencer croissants and PG Tips tea, there were a few last things to stuff into the luggage.

(Stephen wrote:)

We got to the lobby just before the HotelLink van arrived. Timing was very good. We were the second of the seven hotels so we got to spend a lot of time in the van.  We got to the airport at about 8:45. Check in took about 30 minutes. We got to the departure lounge at about 9:30 and had about two hours to kill. We explored the departure lounge and got bagels avec breakfast.

We flew out of London at about 12:15. The flight home was much better than the flight to London. The plane was much less full. I watched Peaches, Evolution, and part of Bridget Jone’s Diary.

We got into Dulles around 2:30. Cleared customs. Found car. Drove home and met CATS!

Biff crashed and burned soon after. Slept from 5:30 or so until Tuesday morning. Aged 43 year old piece of crap!

(Elizabeth wrote:)

I won’t miss that dinky little hotel room at the Bayswater Inn. It was probably the most disappointing think about the trip (or maybe a close second to the airplane trip over). Even if you don’t plan to spend much time in the room, it makes a huge difference to have a comfortable bed and a poper number of towels and wash clothes.

Biff said the HotelLink driver was the hardest working man in London. He made short work of picking everyone up (as he said, seven hotels in 32 minutes), and was cheerful to boot. He must be a real asset to the company for early morning runs full of sleepy Americans.

The flight back was 100% better than the flight over. More space, cooler air, and a less dry atmosphere made the difference. I was even able to nap. Food was good.

Why didn’t Heathrow look like it did in the TV show? They were doing renovation (as was just about everything else in London) — and it was obviously time! I guess Terminal 3 must be the old one.

Now Biff can write whatever he wants.

[end of journal]

Sunday, Oct. 14

Slept till 8:30 or so.

Breakfast in the room: tea, croissants, fruit. Walked by the nearly church on the way to the underground. The church is a Greek Orthodox establishment.

Changed a little money before getting on the tube. Rode the train to South Kensington Station. Station area includes the Science Museum, the Natural History Museum & the Victoria and Albert Museum. We went to the V&A but the Science Museum was very tempting. We spent about 2.5 to 3 hours in the V&A.

Went looking for chow after the museum. We finally chose a small cafe. It was pretty good.

We went from S.K. area to Kensington Gardens passing Royal Albert Hall on the way. R.A.H. is a very distinctive building. Quite attractive. Across the street is the Albert Memorial. The Memorial is unlike anything I’ve ever seen.

The memorial is in Kensington Gardens. Plenty o’ dogs in Kensington. Huge park which adjoins Hyde Park. We walked through to Kensington Palace. Toured the palace. Interesting place. Definitely more attractive than Buckingham.

Walked through Kensington Gardens to Queensway on the way home. Thought about having dinner at a pub, the Redan, but didn’t like the looks of it. Ended up having dinner at a Tex-Mex restaurant in the Whiteley’s mall. Surprisingly good!

Came back by way of the grocery. Got water for overnight. Watched a show about Penelope Keith, a show about Elizabeth R and a show about Betty packing.

(Elizabeth wrote):

The chocolate croissants this morning were from Marks & Spencer. Good stuff. Glad we bought a package of four (two more for tomorrow morning).

I like the Greek Orthodox church around the corner. It has nice stone carvings in its brick wall and a pretty set of chemes(?), It’s called St. Sophia’s, and there was a service in progress when we went by this morning.

We hadn’t gone into the streets just behind the hotel (near St. Sophia’s) until this morning. There’s an interesting mix of restaurants and grocers there.

I really enjoyed the V&A, although it’s overwhelming. I spent all of my time in the ceramics area. but I only skimmed through. If I had taken the time to study each piece, or even each section, I’d still be there.

Must remember to have cream cheese and cucumber sandwiches when we get back.

Wish I had taken more pictures in Kensignton Gardens; wish also we had time to walk all the way through Hyde Park. It was beautiful there this afternoon, even though the weather was definitely overcast. The smell of fall was in the air, and the leaves of the trees. Trees, plants, dogs, birds, gorgeously maintained lawns — I needed more of this part of London.

Kensington Palace was interesting more for the clothing collection, I thought, than for the building. Most of the rooms were bare in the State Rooms area. We were the last group through and the staff literally pushed us along from behind as we listed to our audio guides, and kept clattering in and out of the rooms, apparently just in case we didn’t realize we needed to hurry.

Packing was a challenge. What they say is so true — always take less than you think you need.

(Elizabeth writes:)

Saturday, Oct. 13

After a lousy breakfast at Burger King (never mistake British bacon for the real thing). We went to Bayswater station and got visitor tube passes. These cover two days of tube travel to all zones.

(Stephen wrote in margin: Biff’s breakfast was good! First good coffee at B.K.!)

We went from Bayswater to Notting Hill Gate station, then walked to the Portobello Road market. Wide range of merchandise, from high-end porcelain to fresh vegetables. Saw several pieces of Doulton stoneware, but nothing very exciting; not worth haggling for. Also some cute things, but not cute enough to lug home on the plane. Ended up buying a t-shirt. Biff was bored, but very considerately put up with it all.

(Stephen wrote in margin: Veggies and fruit looked great.)

Next, the Tower of London. It should be called Tower Village – lots of buildings in typical London jumbled architectural styles. They just happen to all be enclosed by four (or so) walls. The ravens were interesting, but by the time we got to their living area, they were all out (to tea, no doubt). Entry fee was almost 23 pounds (about $35). Couldn’t possibly see it all, and missed the tour. We saw Medieval Castle, did the South Walk, White Tower. Nice archaeoogical exhibits. Had lunch at the New Armouries Cafe – good food, excellent dessert.

(Stephen wrote in margin:

This trip sheds light on what D.L. Sayers calls “the nice bits”.

and

They have a water fountain at the Tower.)

Walked across the street from the Tower to try to find out what the massive building with statuary is; no luck. But there is a nice memorial to WWI merchant seaman and a pretty park.

After a long series of tube stations and miles of walking, we got to St. Paul’s Cathedral. Decided to be satisfied with viewing it from the outside rather than paying for admission.

Then another walk and more tube riding to Tottenham Court Road. Chatted with a nice lady and her West Highland terrier on the tube. Seems so unusual to see food, drink, and dogs on the subway.

We walked toward Piccadily Circus on Charing Cross Road; very, very crowded. Lots of bookstores in the area (including Borders, Blackwell’s, and Foyles). Went into Foyles and bought two Miss Read books, Biff looked for Lillian Beckwith but was out of luck.

(Stephen wrote in margin: C.C.R. is really overwhelming. Bookstore after bookstore.)

Went through Soho Square to Piccadilly Circus and watched the wildlife there for a bit. Then back on the tube to Bayswater and dinner at Bella. Pretty good Italian.

More weird British TV until bedtime.

(Stephen wrote:)

London is overwhelming with nearly nude women everywhere! Boobs, boobs, boobs!

Notting Hill was cleaned up tremendously for the movie. It was only just recognizable. Reminded me of a cross between the French Quarter (smell) and the Fairfax City Fall Festival. There was a stall on one corner selling CD sets. They seemed to be sampling songs that had been featured in romantic comedies of the 90s. Heard songs used in Sleepless in Seattle, Peter’s Friends, etc.

Don’t know how people who have to drive through Notting Hill manage it. Seemed a nightmare to me.

Institutional food sees to have improved greatly in Britain. I guess it has gotten better in the U.S. but you really notice it here. We’ve had good lunches or snacks at Kew, Westminster Abbey and the Tower of London.

I had always thought that the Tower of London was just A tower in London like the Eiffel Tower or the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Big surprise.

St. Paul’s wasn’t as impressive up close as it is at a distance.

I’ve walked my legs off. Feet don’t seem to really take the brunt. Seems to be low back and calves that are most impacted.

Snooze time, now.

Friday, Oct. 12

Tube strike was called off. Went from Bayswater to Paddington this morning to catch the 9:36 train to Oxford. The trip took about an hour. I slept through most of it. The conductor barely looked at tickets as we got on, and didn’t check them at all when we got off.

By the time we got to Oxford, we were hungry (of course). English breakfasts (2 fried eggs, fried tomatoes, bacon, sausage, mushrooms, and toast), with orange juice and coffee, at Cafe Rico.

Next, to the tourist information center to book a walking tour. We wandered around a bit to wait for the tour time and stumbled across The Mitre. Biff took my picture in front of it. Also made a short, fruitless search for used book stores.

Walking tour began at 1:00. Guide was a nice lady, very well informed, who talked and walked very fast. There was a lot to do in two hours. On the tour with us were three English, four Canadians, two Americans, and four Aussies. Ooops. Spaniards, not Canadians.

(Stephen wrote in margin: I always confuse Spaniards and Canadians.)

The guide took us to the chapel and earliest quadrangle of St. John’s College, then two later quads. She also showed us the gardens (beautiful). Then she showed us the very different Keble College, including the dining hall (high table and trestle tables, a la Gaudy Night).

(Stephen wrote in margin: Keble, Trinity)

From Keble we went to the Bodlian Library, where we saw the Divinity School and Radcliff Camera. For some reason, the guide took us back through the covered market (does she get kickbacks?), and left us on our own out front.

(Stephen wrote in margin: Probably!) (He appears to be agreeing with the kickback idea.)

Time to eat again. Enjoyed lunch at a swanky-looking little place called, of all things, Pizza Express. I had lovely strawberries & cream to follow my pizza and salad; Biff had vanilla ice cream.

(Stephen wrote in margin: ice cream shaped like …)

(Unfortunately I no longer recall how the ice cream was shaped!)

Then we set out in search of T-shirts and used book shops (again). Bought several things, but found no good book shops.

(Stephen wrote in margin: The tower of the University chapel was closed!!!)

Almost exhausted, we went for a quick view of Balliol College, then, totally exhausted, we went to the train station and caught the 6:20 to Paddington.

Came back from Paddington to Bayswater on the tube, then stopped at Marks & Spencer for sandwiches etc. for dinner. Wanted to call my mother (it’s Friday), but was too tired to go back out to the phone box on the corner.

Watched old British TV until bedtime.

Forgot to mention that Oxford was more crowded than London. Lots of people, all frantic.

Thursday, Oct. 11 [2001]

Breakfast at the hotel (disappointing). Nobody here knows how to make coffee.

Our booking for the London Eye was at 10:00 am. Unfortunately the weather was not good-overcast with light drizzle. Visibility pretty bad, but still an interesting view.

We had chocolate and latte at the cafe at the Eye. Walked from tehre to Westminster Abbey and spent several hours there. Biff got bored, but I enjoyed it. Lunch at the Abbey (sandwiches and Eccles cake); Biff had a Polish coke.

(Stephen wrote in margin: Biff didn’t get bored. He got overwhelmed.)

Walked from Westminster to Buckingham Palace. Royal standard was flying when we arrived, but Union Jack was up when we left. Two unescorted cars left (together) while we were there. Couldn’t have been herself, of course.

Went by St. James Park, the Horse Guards Arch, and 10 Downing Street. (or is it 11?) on our way to Charing Cross Station. (Stephen wrote: “10! 11!” in the margin.) Looking for info on getting to Oxford tomorrow. Told we should go to Paddington. Finally bought tickets at Paddington.

Dinner at Garfunkel’s near Paddington Station.

Stopped on the way back to the hotel for Friday breakfast (fruit and pastry).

(Stephen wrote in margin: Rail strike was anticipated for Oct. 12. Found out this evening that it has been averted.)

(Stephen wrote:)

Roundabout in front of Garfunkels was like Lincoln Square in Gettysburg … only more so. Almost felt like you were sitting at a bull ring cheering against the matador, of course.

Paddington Station is an absolute zoo!

Wed. Oct. 10 [2001]

Slept late because I woke at 3 with a headache and didn’t take the Tylenol until 6 am.

Breakfast again at the French pastry shop.

Spent most of day at Kew Gardens. Lunched there (twice). Came back by the Embankment and booked tickets for the London Eye on Thursday.

Dinner at Cafe Rouge in Whitely Mall in Bayswater.

Good weather all day.

(Stephen wrote:)

The geese still rule at Kew!

Cafe Rouge was pretty good. It is easy to understand why 10% tips are the norm in London.

October 8 and 9, 2001 London

Got the dogs to the kennel in the morning, but forgot to take the meds. second trip there on the way to the airport.

Airplane was ready to leave early, but was held to leave late.

Smallest plane seats I’ve ever seen, driest air, most uncomfortable flight. I watched Legally Blond (mildly entertaining); Biff channel-surfed.

Got to Heathrow at about 7:05 am. [Oct. 9] Took almost two hours to reach the hotel by shuttle, only to find no rooms woujld be available before 12:30. Went for a pastry breakfast, then dozed off and on in the lobby.

Crashed in the room for a couple of hours, then walked out for dinner (TGI Friday’s) and a look at the local mall. Coffee there at the bookshop.

We got to the theater a little late for It’s Complicated and just in time for Up in the air so I got my choice.

I really liked this movie. George was at his georgiest which can’t be bad. George’s squeeze, Vera Farmiga, looked extremely familiar but the only thing I’ve seen her in is Neverwas. She and George had great chemistry as two people who are really attracted to each other. The scene where they go off to his sister’s wedding strongly reminded me of Last Chance Harvey (with Dustin and Emma).

Up in the air is clearly a companion piece to Thank you for smoking and has a very similar emotional arc. Both of the movies are solid, entertaining and moving.

The scenes where George and his young protege fire people were surprisingly touching in a comedy. I understand that many of the people featured in those scenes were amateurs.

I liked a great number of the songs in the sound track. I thought they might use The Big Country by the Talking Heads but that may be too obvious and/or too negative in tone.

I thought there were some really nice touches to the movie. For instance, the young woman. Anna Kendrick, who effectively becomes Clooney’s protege doesn’t fall in love with him. She only sees him as old.

The punchline with the Alex character was also a little surprising.

I’d give Up in the air a solid B+. Definitely recommended.

The vibe is like Lost in Translation but funnier. I’m definitely keeping my eye on the young Mr. Reitman. Thank you for smoking, Juno, Up in the air. Pretty nice string of movies.

Someone said name two movies:

I really liked Invincible. Thought MM was good. (I really liked Elizabeth Banks in that movie. She also played Miri in Zach and Miri.)

I’d also give him Boogie Nights, The Corruptor (Chow Yun Fat), Three Kings, The Perfect Storm (a movie that should be better than it is), The Italian Job. I may be one of the few people who liked The Happening. I’ve seen parts of four brothers. That looks entertaining.

As to Shooter, my guess is that it is Mr. Wahlberg’s attempt at a Bourne style franchise. Bobby Lee Swagger? Yeah. Right.

Shooter’s a fairly well constructed, fairly well executed action movie. Sort of the standard paranoid melodrama in the mold of Parallax View or Three Days of the Condor or Most Wanted. The basic plot echoes Keenan Ivory Wayans Most Wanted pretty strongly. There are also plot elements that echo Enemy of the State and the Bruce Willis’ version of The Jackal.

Danny Glover makes a really good villain. That was nice to know. The man should be in a lot more movies. Ned Beatty is also quite good in his scenes. Levon Helm was quite good in a small role.

I got a kick out of the name Nick Memphis for an FBI agent. Sounds like Nick Fury’s competitor for top Shield agent.

Not a great movie. Not a masterpiece. If you cut 20 minutes out of it it would be a taut thriller. As is. Fun, entertaining, worth renting if you like violent movies.

I spent the first 15 minutes of the movie wondering why Tina Fey’s clothes didn’t fit. But, I just let art flow over me as urged by William Hurt in The Big Chill and Elizabeth all of the time. When I just sat back and watched the movie I enjoyed it.

Stev Martin (Stev not Steve) was weird, wacky, and wonderful. Very funny, very nutty, very pony tail.

Sigorney looks great in the movie and she’s so gooey and bad taking 100k for doing very little work. My kind of gal.

All in all it’s just an entertaining little comedy. Tina Fey ends up being straight man to a lot of good performances. Amy Poehler’s line about olive oil on my taint had my rolling.

The scene where the birthing coach breastfeeds her “baby” gave me bad dreams for a few days.

I give Baby Mama a solid B